From Hunter to Hilltops: NSW'S Finest Under One Roof
Innovation and tradition intertwine at Hungerford Hill, where the estate's rich history serves as the foundation for its forward-thinking approach to winemaking. Home to Muse, the Hunter Valley's only two-hatted restaurant, this iconic establishment continues to set new standards in culinary excellence and viticulture.
Under the guidance of Chief Winemaker Bryan Currie, Hungerford Hill crafts wines that bridge the gap between time-honoured techniques and contemporary innovation, creating experiences that captivate wine enthusiasts and casual sippers alike.
The estate's story began as a humble cattle farm owned by the Hungerford family, extending across what is now Hunter Valley Gardens and Cypress Lakes Resort. In 1967, during the Australian wine industry's renaissance, accountant and visionary entrepreneur John Parker transformed the property into a vineyard. This timing coincided with a pivotal shift in Australian wine culture, as consumers began embracing table wines over the then-popular sherries and ports. Parker's foresight led to the establishment of a cellar door in 1970, followed by one of the region's pioneering wine tourism complexes.
The estate's journey took a turn in 1985 when Southcorp acquired the property through a hostile takeover, adding vineyards in Tumbarumba and Hilltops to its portfolio. It wasn't until John Kirby's purchase in 2002 that the Hungerford Hill brand found new life. Kirby's tenure saw the construction of the iconic barrel-shaped cellar door on One Broke Road,
a masterpiece designed by architect Walter Barda, and the establishment of the estate's premium wine reputation.
In 2016, Sam Arnaout of Iris Capital took ownership, expanding the estate's influence with the acquisition of Sweetwater Vineyard, Wyndham Estate, and the historic Dalwood brand—a vineyard dating back to George Wyndham's establishment in 1828. Arnaout's strategic decision to bring Bryan Currie on board as Winemaker has proven instrumental in the estate's continued evolution.
"I'd been working with fruit from this region all my career, and I wanted to continue to do that," reflects Bryan.
"At the same time, I loved the idea that Hungerford Hill had fruit available from several different climates, enabling us to create a full range of wines."
This diversity in terroir is central to Hungerford Hill's distinctive portfolio. Each vineyard contributes unique characteristics: Dalwood Estate's sandy soils yield light, aromatic Shiraz; Sweetwater Estate's red clay over limestone produces fuller-bodied wines; Hungerford Hill's dark clay creates wines of remarkable density. The cool climate of Hilltops proves ideal for Sangiovese, Tempranillo, and Malbec, while Tumbarumba's colder conditions are perfect for Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier.
"We're having fun creating Spanish-style wine using early-ripening Tempranillo and late-ripening Graciano from Hilltops," Bryan explains.
"We're proud to offer a wine for every palate and every occasion with wines from multiple regions -- the full NSW experience."
Innovation remains at the forefront of Hungerford Hill's philosophy. Since 2020, Currie has pioneered vegan-friendly and preservative-free wines, using plant proteins like pea or potato starch for fining, while preservative-free varieties develop more savoury, textural profiles. Looking ahead, Bryan's enthusiasm for experimentation continues unabated.
"I'm keen to push the envelope and experiment with blends," he shares.
"The Hunter Valley's variability in seasonal climate makes our wines stand out, and the trick is to be relaxed and not too stressed about it. Some of the greatest wines are often blends, so I'm excited to explore that.”
The estate's commitment to excellence extends beyond the cellar. Muse Restaurant, nestled within the Hungerford Hill complex, maintains its position as the Hunter Valley's only two-hatted restaurant, offering contemporary Australian cuisine that celebrates local produce. The synergy between restaurant and winery creates exceptional dining experiences, exemplified by their popular Epic Tasting Experience—a $60 per person mini-degustation pairing Hungerford Hill wines with Muse's culinary creations.
As Hungerford Hill continues to evolve, it stands as a testament to the power of respecting tradition while embracing innovation, creating wines and experiences that honour the past while boldly stepping into the future.
For more information, visit www.hungerfordhill.com.au
